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Tales of the Cocktail '08
The Virtues of Nuts & Beans
American Whiskey: The New World Amber
The Daquiri: An essential past
The Straight Mojito
Drink is Human but Aperitif Devine
Fresh is Best...
"The Pegu Club" and an interview with Audrey Saunders
The Simple Palate Starter

The Simple Palate Starter

  

Ask any bartender in Australia to serve you an aperitif and usually the returned look will resemble that of a person who has only heard English words for the very first time; confusion and bewilderment.  However, some seasoned drink slingers will confidently turn around and in a matter of a few short minutes return with an interesting mixed concoction.

          Even though the sour mixer and the martini stirrer are quite right to assume their drink is an aperitif cocktail, the issue at hand is that an aperitif can be a much simpler task that requires very little stress or manipulation. In fact, many would be surprised to learn that the most widely consumed libation that opens the appetite for millions of Australians (and everybody else in the world) are the well known aperitif categories of beer and wine.

  

         Perhaps these may seem a tad too simple for all the shaker-happy young guns tending today’s bars but while recently visiting some older, hipster friends, I was educated on how simplicity can be intriguing. Upon arriving we were enjoying some appetizers with a glass of non-descript white wine discussing the holidays when the conversation went to the drinks served at their Christmas party, Black Velvets.

  

          Being such an unusual combination (equal amounts of Guinness and Champagne), it has always been a point of wonderment to me, although I had never had the opportunity or inclination to attempt the mix (especially as I have a waning appreciation for Guinness at the best of times). They described how everyone at their shindig loved them so much and that they had been fans for many years - I was almost at a point of begging them to pour me one in order for my enlightenment to begin.

  

          Granted the earth didn’t move for me exactly how I was expecting, my taste buds weren’t in rapture but my palate was left in preparation for something more. For me the revelation was that this 1862 throw-together to honour the passing of Prince Albert (that just begs for a joke) was obvious, yet brilliant; A great example of what an aperitif should be, light, crisp and easy to make (as long as you remember to start with the Guinness).

  

Bodega Gonzalez Byass, makers of Tio Pepe Sherry & Lepanto brandies  

          Another simplistic example is Sherry, the aperitif that for me symbolizes the category, more specifically the fino or amontillado style; very dry with that unique rancio flavour, a characteristic that gives the scent of an over oxidized wine. This comes from the flor (yeast cells) that grow on the surface, which determines whether the batch will become this coveted drier style or one more akin to port like oloroso or palo cortados.

  

          The literally translated rancid is a taste that can usually be found in products like cured meats and some wines that have been extra-aged. Describing some very old whiskeys, Gary Reagan explained, “earthy, cheesey, and mushroomy (with a vague hint of soy sauce), rancio is one of those flavors that has to be encountered a few times before it becomes a close and friendly acquaintance.”  Almost seems impossible to work with, right?

  

  

          Next time the opportunity arises compare a dry style of sherry with dry vermouth; although they are similarly ‘fortified’ wines, the earlier possess that something special. Try a perfect Manhattan, Rob Roy or even Martini with sherry and a completely different layer is created. The mixing with any liqueur and some citrus juice or oils works in some cases better than the traditional combination of dry vermouth and Crème de Cassis.

  

          Another classic yet underused aperitif flavour is that of anise. Either in the French pastis or Greek ouzo version they are both very effective in opening the appetite, especially those of quality and higher ABV. Ideally the spirit is lengthened with chilled water or lemon and soda in their respective countries but mixed with gin, herbs and a variety of other ingredients, this makes for a perfect palate cleanser.

  

          But don’t just take my word for it. Ben Davidson, Brand Ambassador for Pernod Ricard also claims that simplicity is the key for great aperitifs adding, “…any spirit; cognac, whiskey or gin, works well in that sense when you lengthen them with soda or tonic.”  Finish any of these varieties with a little citrus twist and there you have a drink to open the appetite.

  

          If this all seems a tad complicated for the novice imbiber, then just use the standards that line many establishments; Campari, Aperol, Dubonnet, vermouth. Do nothing more to them though, than add a little ice, your choice of soft drink as a mixer and crown with something citrus for sharpness. This, my friends, is the best introduction to aperitifs for any guest, unless like me you have made an acquaintance of the rancio, then the prospect of an aperitif just gets a little more exciting.

  

CHEERS!!!

  

  • Black Velvet

Guiness

Champagne

Poured one after the other into a champagne flute or wine glass.

  

  • El Bodeguero

45ml Amontillado sherry

20ml Licor 43

15ml Lemon juice

30ml Apple juice

Shake & strain into a rocks glass with fresh ice and garnish with sliced apple

  

  • Samos Cocktail

30ml Ouzo

30ml Gin

30ml Lemon Juice

5ml Gomme syrup

5 mint leaves

Muddle mint leaves then shake with ice and other ingredients.  Double strain into a chilled martini glass. Can also be served in a tall glass finished with soda water.

  

  

  

2008 Elixir Group 
  
  
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