Drink is Human,

but Aperitif Devine

Certainly the final bastion of decorum, the pairing of food and drink truly defines what makes humans distinct to other animals.  The enjoyment of coupling flavours is so unique to us in fact, that we’ve created a sub-sector to the

whole experience, possibly to justify the pure decadence.   So if the simple ideal ‘a good steak deserves a good red wine’ is the human factor, then the Aperitif is what gives us cultural definition.

          Let me start off by clarifying that no one culture owns the idea of the ‘opener’, which is where the name came from, aperir, Latin for the phrase, ‘to open’. And its roots are so established in history many argue the ancient Egyptians might have originated the ritual of having a nibble accompanied by a beverage. That certainly is conceivable considering they were the ones to come up with the concept of beer, and we all know how well that went.

          The methodology surrounding the modern pre-dinner intoxicating beverages can be traced back to alcohol based home remedies found in publications like Maison Rustique (1564) and Delights for Ladies (1609).  Recipes with a variety of flowers, herbs, spices and roots steeped in order to extract their medicinal benefits in wine, sometimes adding stronger alcoholic liquids to halt any second fermentation.  That’s all good but how did they go from cure alls to inebriants that would stimulate the appetite?

          The first commercial aperitif didn’t appear until 1786 when Antonio Carpano invented Vermouth by infusing 30 different herbs and spices into a local Turin white wine. The Italian bon vivant then sweetened his concoction in order to appease the ladies offering them an alternative to the harsher reds available.  Although this was an admirable effort the Carpanos would become better known for a combination of their vermouth with one and a half parts of dark bitters, Punt e Mes.

          Antonio’s aromatized wine was a complete success that would eventually spawn the vermouth giants, Cinzano and self-proclaimed inventors of the martini cocktail, Martini & Rosso now owners of the first French (aged) style of vermouth Noilly Prat.  The popularity of these products was due to the lack of strong alcoholic kick, which made the aperitif before dinner very accessible and therefore fashionable across the globe.  Especially once they arrived into the U.S towards the end of the 1800’s where the cocktails created with them would guarantee their position in every standard bar set up.

          Much is owed to the inventiveness of both the Italians and French but one of the most consumed products in the same category has a very long and colourful history that spans many centuries.  The Spanish have been making sherry since the days before Christ when it was known in Rome by the name “Vinum Ceretensis” and it is the ‘Fino’ and ‘Manzanilla’ that best represents the entire aperitif category.  

          Although the region produces Oloroso and Amontillado, which are sweeter and better for post meal consumption, it is the light and crisp characteristics of the others perfect for opening the appetite and enjoying with tapas.

          Another well-known flavour characteristic that tells the body to prepare for intake is bitterness and the most common representation of this is the socially acceptable lemon, lime & Angostura bitters. The best known bitter in the world of aperitifs though would undoubtedly be the drink synonymous with everything Italian and cool, Campari. 

          This brand has maintained the reputation of fashion leader ever since it developed the world’s first pre-mixed drink in 1932 up until the recent launch of the new advertising campaign with Salma Hayek, where Sydney bar personality Alexx Swainston and myself were asked to create a Campari cocktail for the event.  Once again defining the amalgamation between drinks and fashion.

          I asked Mick Formosa while visiting his new home in Hawthorn, “The Undertaker” about a technique his good friend Ben Walsh used in the Bartender of the year competition rimming his cocktail with Campari dust.  Apparently a little discovery Mick made by accident, “It was something I came across on a Monday night, cleaning the bottles on the backbar.  I got to the Campari and there was some crystallized residue around the pourer,” he says.  

          He looks side to side and slides in closer, “Making sure nobody was looking I picked some off and tasted it. It was sweet but still had the distinct bitterness that is only Campari.  So I dried out a couple of shots, put it into a mortar and pestle, and ground it into a fine powder. After some trial and error with other products like liqueurs, Campari seemed to be the best product that kept it’s flavour and character.”

          Mick has always proclaimed his love of Aperitifs especially for their romantic pasts.  When he starts talking his eyes light up and a smile creeps across his face that doesn’t leave until the end of our chat.  “Most of them come from either Italy, France or Spain which are nations steeped in love, history, beauty and romance. Most were originally produced as a health tonic, or purpose created to make food a more enjoyable experience.” 

          Many bartenders are now turning to these ingredients steeped in history with a newfound fervor, not only to recreate the classics but also to bring varying layers of complexity to new drinks.  Layers that will hopefully make up the next modern classic or as Jerry Thomas puts it, “…our crowning glory.” Mick agrees, “As a cocktail bartender, the use of aperitifs and bitters allows me to hit a little more of the palate and fine tune a drink into a culinary experience that people subconsciously crave.”

          These products are important to the know-how of a cocktail bartender but sometimes the information is hard to come by though it seems Mick has that sorted.  “I’ve learnt a lot from a book called ‘The Aperitif Companion’ by Andrew Jones. This book covers as much of the production as possible, but it also talks about the history and romance like the illicit love story of Gaspare Campari, the gorgeous daughter behind Noilly Prat, and the design of the Rosso Antico bottle by Salvador Dali. A great book if you can get your hands on it.”

          And the selection of products in the market is enough to inspire even the most novice bartender to educate themselves on such diverse products like the original aperitif, Punt e Mes or the more subtle orange bitter Aperol.  Maybe for something a little more unusual the artichoke made bitter, Cynar or perhaps discovering the reason for the more oak aged tones of Dubonnet.  Of course there is also the anis-based aperitifs like the re-popularized Absinthe or the staple for a typical Greek mezedes of octopus and dolmades, Ouzo cut with water.

          The pastis and ouzo ritual have both helped carve out the artist’s bohemian society in France and a spirit that symbolizes the Greek way of life showing how culturally defining drinks can be while having strong similarities in taste and method. Though it may not be a popular flavour the arrival of higher quality brands like Le Mercier, the original Pernod Absinthe and the most popular brand in Greece, Ouzo 12 are raising the perception of the anis-based aperitif. 

           But not only do brands represent a country’s style of drinking this also rings true for many of the famous classic aperitif cocktails.  A mojito really personifies the Cuban culture and sets you into a relaxed island beach mentality that can only be compounded by some Cuban stuffed plantains.

          Like the Sour or Collins style of drinks created in England in the 18th century or the Martini and Manhattan from the U.S, they reflect their parentage.  So more than a brand of alcohol or even a type of cocktail you could say that the aperitif depends on who you are and where you want to be.

          This method of preparing the body for its eventual filling can be found in almost every corner of the globe and consumed by many from differing religious persuasions.  Who in Australia has never had some Mezza, a little hummus and pita with a smidge of Arak (well maybe not the Arak)?  Or perhaps a session of Zakuski; the Russian way of drinking vodka with an array of smoked meats and fish.  These are some very old cultures that have adapted a name to the way they do things, but looking closer to home a pint of XXXX and some Nobby’s salted cashews sounds like a good Aussie opener to me.  All we need is a good name.  

Cheers!